Collar, Cyprus, late 20th century

Needlelace in which the pattern is created with knotted stitches, making loops of different sizes, is made in many parts of the Eastern Mediterranean region — the Greek Islands, Cyprus, Turkey, Palestine and the Lebanon. It is said to have very ancient origins and is known by a variety of names including Dandella, Armenian lace, Nazareth lace, Phoenician lace, Bebilla and Oya. Silk, linen or cotton threads can be used to make doilies and collars as well as edgings for clothing or household items such as bed linen, curtains, tablecloths, and handkerchiefs.

Enlarged detail from the collar above

Making the knotted stitch: 1. Take needle under thread. 2. Bring thread from eye under the needle point from right to left.

3. Pull needle through in an upward direction and pull knot tight.

In Greece bebilla is the term used for any small or delicate lace edging. However, bebilla is often used specifically for the tiny coloured flowers and leaves used to decorate the edges of scarves. Oya is the Turkish name for these little floral decorations, although the same name is also used for similar crocheted and tatted flowers and leaves.

Scarf decorated with Bebilla flowers, Turkey, late 20th century